Opted Outside

Batiquitos Lagoon
Carlsbad
November 23, 2018

We took part in the REI “Opt Outside” movement, and hiked the Batiquitos Lagoon on Black Friday morning.

The outing gave us a chance to practice with our digital camera, but the photos posted here were taken on Meredith’s iPhone for convenience.

The hike out to the end of the trail, which runs along the North side of the lagoon, is almost entirely flat. The total distance out and back was three miles. We saw a snowy egret and a great heron, and many smaller birds. We stopped in the small visitors center at the West end of the lagoon when we returned, and found good displays about local wildlife and indigenous people of the area.

Speed!

San Diego Air and Space Museum
Balboa Park
November 12, 2018

We took advantage of the Veterans Day Monday holiday, which Bob had off work, to visit the special exhibition at the Air and Space Museum, Speed: Science in Motion. We had been alerted by a Union Tribune article to the fact that the original Bullitt Mustang would be on display there, just from November 4-19. Meredith is an avid Mustang fan, so this was a “must see” for us.

Two different Mustangs were used in filming the 1968 Steve McQueen movie. The one used in the stunt jumps was damaged in filming and sent to a salvage yard. The “hero” Mustang used in other scenes was purchased by a private party and only recently rediscovered. We found a bonus when we arrived at the museum. Next to the Bullitt Mustang was displayed a beautifully restored Dodge Charger of the same vintage as the one seen in the movie’s chase scene. We had not actually seen Bullitt until that weekend; we made a point of streaming the movie a few days before our visit, so we would appreciate what we saw.

Although Steve McQueen’s Mustang has moved on and is no longer on display at the museum, the Speed exhibit remains. It is displays what the museum describes as “an exciting lineup of the fastest planes, jets, rockets, cars, motorcycles, boats, bicycles in the world.” We saw the land speed record setting bicycle ridden by Denise Mueller-Korenek behind a pace car to a world record of 183.9 miles per hour, and a Formula One race car, among other high speed vehicles. There are hands-on displays, such as a model differential, a video timing reflexes, and model cars that can be sent down tracks. The school kids who were enjoying the day off were entranced by the hands-on activities and could not have cared less about the Bullitt car.

After leaving the Speed exhibit, we walked through the rest of the museum. The PSA area brought back memories for Meredith, who used to fly PSA between the Bay Area and Los Angeles in the 1970’s.

We were wearing our memorial Veterans Day poppies, as we had been for several days. When we were in Canada for Remembrance Day four years ago we were struck by how poppies were everywhere, on every lapel. Since then we have tried to do our bit to revive the poppy wearing custom in our country, distributing Buddy Poppies obtained from the VFW to our friends and acquaintances.

We lingered in the World War I area, reading about the primitive planes used in that war and the men that flew them, then moved on to the World War II displays.

Our Balboa Park Explorer passes were sufficient for museum admission, but we had to pay an extra $5 for admission to the Speed exhibit.

Woolsey Fire

Paramount Ranch
Santa Monica Mountains
November 11, 2018

Once again Santa Ana winds are driving devastating wildfires in California. The Woolsey Fire started in Thousand Oaks, jumped the 101, and spread south and east, all the way to Malibu and West Hills. Meredith’s alma mater, Taft High School in Woodland Hills, is being used as an evacuation center. Friday brought the news that a place we had been with Margaret — Paramount Ranch’s Western Town, in the Santa Monica Mountain Nature Reserve — was destroyed.

Many films and television shows have been filmed in the area from the 1920’s on, not only on the Paramount Ranch property but also in nearby areas once owned by other studios. Films shot at least in part on the Paramount Ranch included numerous Westerns, especially in the 1920’s and 30’s, the Marx Brothers’ Horse Feathers (1932), Beau Geste (1939), The Love Bug (1968) and its sequels, and more recently American Sniper (2014). The Western Town part of the ranch included about 20 wooden structures built as a movie set in the 1950’s. That set was used for various productions for several decades, including the current HBO series Westworld and the television show Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman in the 1990’s.

We took Meredith’s mother Margaret there in 2015. It was a little challenging pushing her wheelchair on the uneven ground, but fun to walk through the “town” and see the set buildings up close. Our earlier post can be seen here.

The destruction of some movie sets, however historic, is trivial compared to the loss of lives and homes, still to be tallied up, but it makes the fire’s effect more real somehow, to know that a place we visited has been obliterated.

Ghostly Inheritance

Inheritance
University of California, San Diego
October 26, 2018

On the Friday before Halloween, we went to see the second performance of a new chamber opera, Inheritance. It was timely for the season and the political debates of the day — the story revolves around Sarah Winchester, the widow of a scion of the Winchester Arms’ Winchesters, who MAY have been haunted in her life by the ghosts of those killed by Winchester rifles, or perhaps the spirit of the baby daughter whose death she mourned. The focal point of the piece, the “inheritance,” is the famous Winchester Mystery House, in San Jose, California. The house is an oddity, with a “door to nowhere,” useless staircases, and other weird spaces. Mrs. Winchester kept building for years, and the question arose as to what was she doing: seeking to atone, distracting herself, or trying her hand as an architect in a time that did not allow that of women? The opera explores a couple of these ideas.

Neither of us approaches modern art with a lot of enthusiasm; we love to quote Charles Ryder’s dictum that Modern Art is “great bosh.” We were pleasantly surprised that we enjoyed the music as much as we did. We had just seen a preview piece about the world premiere of the opera in the San Diego Union Tribune the Sunday before. We thought we would take a chance on it.

The composer is Lei Liang, a professor at the University of California, San Diego. The production was staged in the Experimental Theater space in the Conrad Prebys Music Center on the campus by ArtPower, an organization that promotes the arts at UCSD. The producer of the show also sang the lead role. Susan Narucki teaches at UCSD. She gave a fine performance in a role that called for strong singing and declaiming—the monologue at the end of the opera was movingly presented.

The other singers were also very good. They played roles that drifted back and forth from the real world to the ghostly, as modern day humans leading or taking tours of the house and as spirits confronting or communing with Sarah. The “tour guide” was strongly portrayed by Josué Cerón , who also did a nice job interpolating some cliché “guide humor” in his tour. The two supporting role female vocalists, Kirsten Ashley Wiest and Hillary Jean Young, who are both graduate students working with Narucki, were very good in their roles as well, as tourists, ghosts of the slain, or at one point the dead child of Sarah.

The rest of the production was also gripping and interesting. Visually, there was great reliance on scrims. Bob has not liked scrims very much when we have seen them used at San Diego Opera in the past, but here they were quite effective. The singers moved them from time to time, to frame the story or redefine the space. They were also used as backdrops for projected images. Almost all of the lyrics were projected on the scrims, which is helpful even in English language opera. Bob particularly liked the textile-like wallpapers that appeared on a couple of occasions. We also saw the Mystery House and lots of falling objects, particularly chairs. That aspect had an air of the Terry Gilliam Monty Python’s Flying Circus animation about it, but it emphasized Sarah’s potential motivation, of the piling up of guilt over the death of gun victims. Aurally, the musicians did a terrific job with a complicated and somewhat improvised piece. The percussionists under the stage were quite busy, shouting the numbers of the dead as well as playing the many instruments called for by the composer. The wind players alternated clarinets and bass clarinets, and the guitarist had opportunities to display his fine Spanish-style guitar skills. The artist on the bass violin seemed to be having lots of fun slapping and plucking and bowing and sawing his instrument, with a couple of virtuoso improvisations.

The opera was performed only three times; we hope it is revived so more people get a chance to see it.

A review of the world premiere performance from the Union-Tribune can be found here.

For those who are more interested in the building and its backstory than in the new opera, we recommend the coverage on 99 Percent Invisible. Roman Mars writes:

The widely accepted narrative about Sarah Winchester, and the one that the current owners of the house are selling, is that she was haunted by spirits. But not everyone is buying it. Historian Mary Jo Ignoffo explores alternative theories about Sarah Winchester in her book, Captive of the Labyrinth.

Ignoffo found no evidence supporting the idea that Sarah Winchester communed with spirits. She believes that what drove Sarah Winchester to build was her desire to be an architect.

Sarah Winchester lived at time when it was highly unusual for women to be architects. She wasn’t licensed, so her own home was the perfect place—and the only place—where she could practice architecture.

Whatever her motivations were, Sarah Winchester built a house with more than 150 rooms, 2000 doors, 47 fireplaces, 40 bedrooms, 40 staircases, 17 chimneys, 13 bathrooms, six kitchens, three elevators, two basements, and one shower. She spent nearly all of her life being an architect.

Women in Law

Women’s Museum of California
Liberty Station
San Diego
October 14, 2018

We visited the exhibition on Women in Law at the Women’s Museum of California in Liberty Station, and we learned a great deal we had not known before about the history of women in the legal profession in the United States.

We read about 19th century pioneers like Arabella Mansfield in Iowa (admitted to the bar after Iowa amended the state constitution in 1869 to drop its male gender restriction) and Clara Foltz in California (admitted in 1878). Not only did women face legal barriers to earning their law licenses, even after admitted to the bar they struggled to build practices. The 19th century attitude toward women in the legal profession was exemplified by this quote by Chief Justice C. J. Ryan of the Wisconsin Supreme Court displayed near the entrance:

Nature has tempered women as little for the judicial conflicts of the courtroom as for the physical conflicts of the battlefield. Our profession has essentially to do with all that is selfish and extortionate, knavish and criminal, coarse and brutal, repulsive and obscene in human life. It would be revolting to all female sense of innocence and the sanctity of their sex.

(Ryan made this statement in opposition to admitting Lavinia Goodell to the bar in 1895.)

Closer to our own time, we read that:

  • Only in the 1970’s did the percentage of women in law schools and legal practice exceed the single digits;
  • 80% of women practicing law in 1988 entered the profession after 1980; and
  • An ABA survey conducted in 1983 revealed that 65% of male attorneys had no female colleagues.

That is the context in which Meredith entered the legal profession. She started law school at the University of San Diego in 1983 and was admitted to the California bar in 1987. When she worked as a law clerk at the San Diego office of a major national law firm in 1985, all of the attorneys in that office – more than 65 total – were men.

The museum was running a video on a loop, with short segments featuring women in the legal profession, both current attorneys and retired. Meredith was particularly interested in the video excerpt and papers on display regarding Madge Bradley, the first female judge on the bench in San Diego County. Bradley was appointed to the bench in 1953. Years ago Meredith heard then-retired Judge Bradley give a riveting talk at a luncheon sponsored by Lawyers Club, the local feminist bar association. Judge Bradley reminisced about what law practice was like in the 1940’s and 50’s, when all the lawyers in the county knew one another and there were only about half a dozen women practicing law. During World War II, she remembered, people were supposed to ask themselves before driving anywhere, “Is this trip necessary?” Bradley handled divorces at a time when, as she put it, “you needed grounds for divorce,” and said that mental cruelty was her preferred ground because “mental cruelty, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.” A portrait of Madge Bradley was hanging as part of the exhibition.

The Women in Law exhibition will close very soon, on October 28.

We also looked through the museum’s permanent exhibit, on the women’s suffrage movement. We have seen it on prior visits to the museum, but this time noticed new artifacts on display.

General admission to the Women’s Museum is $5; students and seniors over 55 are $3; military and children under 12 are free. The museum is open Wednesday through Sunday, 12 noon to 4:00 p.m. Parking is free, and the museum is wheelchair accessible.

We had headed to the museum after church and stopped to enjoy a brunch at the Fig Tree Café before heading over to the museum. The food and service were excellent. Several other Boston fans greeted us, as we walked around Liberty Station in our Red Sox ballcaps. Go Sox!

Cuyamaca Gold

Cuyamaca Rancho State Park
Stonewall Peak and Mine Museum
Between Descanso and Julian
October 7, 2018

We went hiking with some of Meredith’s rowing teammates in the Cuyamaca mountains. The group met and parked at the Paso Pichaco campground, then climbed up the west side of Stonewall Peak. We walked down the east side of the mountain and around a loop, coming back on the Cold Stream Trail, which runs parallel to State Route 79. The hike took us about 3 hours. The views from the heights were spectacular, and our geologist friend Beth explained the rock formations we saw.

After the hike a few of the younger hikers headed off to Nickel Beer Company in Julian to rehydrate themselves. The more studious of us, including the geologist, drove a short distance north to the site of the former Stonewall gold mine. The entrance to the mineshaft is visible, along with some rusting machinery, all behind a chain link fence. We visited the small museum, which displays historical photos and explains the history of the mine. It was one of several gold mines in the Julian area. It first opened in the 1870’s and operated, off and on, until the early 20th century. In 1926, just before a planned inspection of the timbers, the main shaft collapsed. Fortunately for the would-be inspectors, they had stopped to eat supper before entering the mine. More information about the history of the mine can be seen here.

Our two groups reconvened at Granny’s Kitchen in Julian for a late lunch. The food was great; this is definitely a place to remember for our next trip to Julian.

Both the hiking trails and the mine museum are within the Cuyamaca Rancho State Park, and visitors must display a pass to park in the lots at the campground and at the museum. Day passes cost $10 per vehicle. Free road parking may (or may not) be available, for those willing to hike in from route 79.

Hurray for Hollywood

Hollywood Museum
Hollywood
September 2, 2018

We drove up to Hollywood and met up with Meredith‘s sister to tour the Hollywood Museum. We have been there twice before, both times with Margaret, but had not visited in several years.

The building itself is a wonderful thing to explore. The museum is located in the old Max Factor building in the heart of Hollywood, on Highland Avenue at Hollywood Boulevard. The ground floor still sports the beautiful marble lobby with the four parlors in which Max met with his celebrity clients. Each is painted a different color. There are separate rooms for blondes, redheads, brunettes, and “brownettes” (Factor’s term for actresses with light brown hair). The wall color in each room is designed to go with the skin tone which best matched the client’s hair. Since many actresses dyed their hair, Factor would adjust the make up for each, to get the right color to have the complexion match her hair.

The back portion of the building was where the Max Factor cosmetics were manufactured and packaged. Nowadays it is used as museum exhibit space.

The entire museum, which covers four floors, is jam packed with artifacts. There are many costumes from movies and television series, numerous props of various kinds, and many photos. The museum collection spans a century of movie and television production. There are several thematic areas, but the museum as a whole is not overly organized. Display cases are crammed full of things, and the visitor is constantly stumbling across artifacts from an old favorite movie or show.

We went this weekend to see the Batman 66 special exhibition, a collection of costumes and props from the old Batman television show of the 1960’s starring Adam West and Burt Ward. It was fun seeing the old villain costumes and a replica of the Batmobile. We learned that it was built on the frame of a Lincoln Futura concept car, complete with the bubble windshield. Several video screens were running clips from the old show. We were particularly struck by a sequence that had Batman and the Joker surfing side-by-side, apparently in some sort of competition, with board shorts worn over their regular costumes. Several display cases featured related collectible memorabilia from the time: action figures, trading cards, board games, buttons, and a variety of toys.

The old Batman TV show debuted when we were in kindergarten, and it was a sensation. Meredith remembers a “Bat Party” her mother hosted for her and her classmates, to which most of the children wore capes. Party games were Batman themed and prizes and favors were Batman items, like a 45 record with the Batman theme song.

After the museum visit we had lunch next-door at Mel’s Diner. Then Kathleen left, and the two of us walked over to Grauman’s Chinese Theater, to look at the celebrity footprints and handprints in the cement.

Adult admission to the Hollywood Museum is $15, and visitors should plan to pay cash in addition to park nearby in Hollywood. There is a small lot next to the museum and other parking nearby on the weekend at Hollywood High School.

The Nile Comes to LA

Getty Center
Sepulveda Pass, Los Angeles
August 5, 2018

We headed north, and met up with Meredith’s sister Kathleen at the Getty Center in Los Angeles. We went to see the special exhibition Beyond the Nile: Egypt in the Classical World. The exhibition runs through September 9, and we wanted to be sure not to miss it.

Various pieces of fine and decorative arts are displayed in the special exhibition pavilion. They span nearly two millennia, and the galleries are arranged in chronological order. The theme is cultural exchange in the Mediterranean world, that is how Egypt and the other civilizations around the Mediterranean traded with one another and how their interactions influenced their respective art. The first room displays the oldest pieces, including objects traded between the Egyptians and the Mycenaeans and other items from the Bronze Age. Among the early pieces is a wooden model of a river boat; this piece had been placed in a tomb. Meredith liked seeing a boat full of rowers, although she thought one rower on the port side was leaning back too far relative to the rest of his crew.

The next room shows Egyptian and classical Greek pieces. The gallery which follows features works from the Ptolemaic period. The last several rooms contain Egyptian and Roman pieces, including some from Pompeii and others from Hadrian‘s villa.

The three of us took a docent led tour, which lasted about an hour and was quite informative. After lunch in the museum café, we went back through the Egypt exhibit on our own. We were all interested by two separate ancient papyri with medicinal recipes and magic healing spells. Although the documents are thousands of years old, large parts remain intact and the writing is clearly visible. We saw numerous statues, busts, and other sculpture. One we particularly liked was a basalt sarcophagus made around 600 BC, on loan from the Rijksmuseum. The person entombed in it was a Greek who attained high office in the Egyptian government, so someone who exemplifies the multicultural theme.

We saw several other things at the center. We caught the end of Pathways to Paradise: Medieval India and Europe. There were some truly splendid illuminated religious manuscripts on display. Although that particular exhibit closed after the weekend of our visit, the Getty has an extensive collection of illuminated manuscripts and often rotates them through special exhibitions like this one. There are some ancient Roman and Greek sculptures on loan from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art. We found them in the south hall of the South Pavilion. The Santa Barbara museum is undergoing extensive multi-year renovation, and these works are on loan while that work is going on. The Lansdowne Hermes was particularly impressive.

Admission to the museum is free, but parking costs $15. A tram runs up the hill from the parking garage. Handicap access is good. The café offers a selection of cuisines, in a food court type arrangement. Food is good, prices are a little high, as is typical with most museum restaurants.

Alaska Museums

Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
Skagway Museum
Sheldon Jackson Museum
June 23 and June 26, 2018
Skagway, Alaska
Sitka, Alaska

The National Park Service has several museum buildings in Skagway, right near the cruise ship landing. We watched a 25 minute video about the Klondike gold rush of 1896-1899 at the visitor center. Skagway and the nearby (now deserted) town of Dyea were jumping off points for “stampeders” who came by ship then went overland on the Chilkoot Trail from Dyea or the longer but less steep White Pass Trail from Skagway. They endured great hardships because they had to traverse the trails many times, hauling food and gear sufficient to last through the winter, a requirement imposed by Canadian Mounties as a condition of entering their country.

The historic district is about twelve blocks long and two blocks wide. The National Park Service maintains several museum buildings: the visitor center, the Mascot Saloon, a junior ranger center, and the Moore Homestead. Skagway boasts many gold rush era wooden buildings, and we enjoyed strolling up and down its main street, stopping to enjoy some spruce tip blonde ale.

We visited the Skagway city museum and learned about local Native American cultures as well as more about the gold rush era.

There was also a sobering display about the wreck of the S.S. Princess Sophia in 1918, which sank with no survivors after it hit the Vanderbilt Reef on the way from Skagway to Seattle. Although the ship remained on the rocks for about 40 hours, and other ships were nearby, the weather was too severe to allow for putting off lifeboats. At least 343 lives were lost. Reading about it made us slightly nervous to be sailing the same waters by ship, but of course navigational equipment has improved, and we enjoyed better weather.

In the town of Sitka we found an excellent museum devoted to native Alaskan peoples, the Sheldon Jackson museum. Meredith’s mother Margaret would have really loved it! There were many fine pieces on display – baskets, tools, clothing, kayaks and canoes, and a number of other items.

The building’s octagonal structure allows for maximum display room, with cases on the exterior walls, a ring of tall cases inside that, and then another ring of chest-high cases with displays on top and drawers that can be pulled out to see additional items. In the very center were several totem poles. Everything was well organized and labeled.

Exploring Alaska

We joined seven other family members in June for a cruise on the Oceania ship Regatta from Seattle to Alaska and back via Victoria, B.C. The scenery was spectacular!

Bob landed a king salmon in Ketchikan, as did our oldest daughter and our niece.

We kayaked on Mendenhall Lake with two of our daughters, seeing both the Mendenhall Glacier and Nugget Falls.

In Skagway we biked through the forest, including the site of what was once the town of Dyea and the beginning of the Chilkoot Trail.

At Icy Strait Point we took a tram through the forest, then hiked a short nature walk.

The ship sailed on north from Icy Strait Point to the Hubbard Glacier, stopping just a mile short of it. The glacier is six miles wide and approximately 300 feet tall. We saw several “calvings,” that is ice breaking off the face of the glacier, where it meets the sea. The whole experience was breathtaking.

On the way back south, we stopped in Sitka. We and our niece hiked with a guided group through the rain forest.

In Victoria we took it a bit easier and hired a van and driver to give us a guided drive through the city. One of our stops was at the largest one-log free-standing totem pole in the world.